If your deck railing is looking worse for wear, it may actually be unsafe, too. Here’s how to replace a deck railing like a pro.
We get calls for what we call “deck resurfacing” from time to time. It usually means replacing the decking and guard rail systems–after inspecting the frame. The guard rail system is the pro way of saying deck railing, and when those vertical elements are looking worse for wear, they may actually be unsafe, too.
It’s a good idea to get a deck inspection if you aren’t sure if the deck is in solid shape. However, frames are in rock solid shape 99% of the time, so the next step is to remove the railing and replace it with a stable and visually-appealing guard rail system.
Can I replace a deck railing ?
Yes, you can replace a deck railing. It’s not a project that can be completed in just an afternoon, so make sure to block out enough time for demo and rebuilding the guard rail. When you replace a deck railing, you’ll find that it becomes a repetitive task, but don’t let your mind wander. You’ll need your wits about you to make sure the spacing of the verticals—some call them balusters or spindles—are spot-on.
If you are working on a ground-level deck, it’s way easier and safer. However, if you have an elevated deck, make sure you feel comfortable working on a ladder and close off any access to the deck during the process. Simply putting caution tape over the doors that lead from the house to the deck can help, in addition to keeping that door locked.
What do we use to replace a deck railing?
The really tough part about wood deck maintenance are the verticals, especially the 2x2s. We often use a wood/metal hybrid system from DekPro that our customers choose for the look and affordability, too. Homeowners love the zero maintenance this deck railing requires.
For a fascia that’ll last and look good doing it, we often use Acre composite deck 1 x 12 boards. Every time we use it, we get excellent results.
To navigate the lumpy, bumpy areas often found beneath a deck, it is a Little Giant Ladder all day. Thing is rock solid.
We like 2 post corners to stiffen up the corners and tie the 2×6 top cap together. Transition blocks stitch the whole system together.
We use Spax screws throughout the process.
Tools & Supplies
SPAX #10 x 3 Exterior Flat Head Deck Wood Screws
Acre by Modern Mill
Code or Common Sense?
Oh, how the internet loves to hate the deck connection process I use when re-surfacing existing decks. Is it in the code book? Nope. But nothing everything that’s fine with the codes can be in the code book. That’s why there are code inspectors to evaluate and interpret the local codes.
Would it require catastrophic forces to hobble it? Yup. I’m all for following code, but there are times where actionable common sense gains the day and I think this is one of them. This works and is much faster than bolts. First, I use a block I screw to the back of the post on layout to position the post. I’ve tried clamps, but an L-shaped block works better because I screw it to the framing. Clamps slip and wobble. The block does not.
I use 3-5/16 x 6-inch Spax PowerLags to make the connection–powered-up! They’re the same screws approved for use in the ledger connection where they deliver a rock solid connection. I get that it is a different load dynamic than guard posts, but still, the deck framing would need to be sideways before these things think about giving way. I plumb and shim as needed.
Then I crush the wood fiber when setting the PowerLags with my mighty Flex Power Tool impact driver of awesomeness. This model has gotten a battery upgrade since I got mine, called Stacked Lithium.
Don’t miter wood deck top caps
Don’t miter wet lumber! NO GOOD!
While it looks good—next level—when you install it, as quickly as two weeks later it’s pinched at the top and wide open at the bottom as the wood dries out. I may have invented this. I use what I call a “stepped joint.” The wood still moves, but it all moves the same. I’ve had some in service for years and they are still closed, attractive and worry free for me.
How to increase the service life of deck railing system
Upgrade an old deck with Post-Proservative. What is Post-Proservative and why should you use it? The same reason the utility pole industry has been using it for decades–it re-treats the post. The utility industry has found that the chemical treatment of their posts dissipates over time, so they drill a hole, add some dried chemical and plug it up. Sure-fire solution.
Look for a star-drive lag screw on any utility pole over 5 years old. That’s where they re-treated. You can do the same for your deck, fence, pole building or retaining wall. Rock-solid.
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