Pergola ideas: We built our pergola with a wood base and we love it

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I love how this pergola makeover came out. Clean, pretty, and a LOT better than before. We made the base out of wood and we love it. Here’s how we did it.

Note: We partnered with Real Cedar to produce this how-to video and blog. The decking is theirs. The design, how-to, and full-tilt love affair with how it turned out are 100% ours.
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The pergola design do-over: Resounding success. We love it.

Adding a wood base to our home out of doors was fun and—despite a fair bit of digging—an easy and rewarding project. How-to follows.

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This is me trying not to look forlorn about my failed attempt at a grassy base for our pergola.

This is what what running out of excuses looks like. While I had high hopes for a grassy base, not enough light was getting through the furniture and my hopes turned to weeds and mud. And, you know how much fun muddy hope is.

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I’ve been working on the railroad.

First step for this makeover was to break a sweat and dig up my dreams. Good thing there’s a quarry being refilled down the street from my house so I had a gigantic muddy pit to shovel them into.

Hey, check out that sweet cedar compost bin in the background. It gets some TLC by the end of this project too.

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Drainage, courtesy of rocks and fabric.

I pre-stained the framing on all 6-sides. I didn’t need to, but I always like to add a bit of belt-and-suspenders where I can. Use ground contact rated pressure treated lumber for this part.

Beneath the framing, I dug a shallow trench (this keeps coming up), lined it with landscape fabric then filled it with gravel. I covered the gravel with the fabric and buried the whole thing. It’s not really necessary, but it’ll give water and snow melt somewhere to go and I think lumber likes that. Combined with the pre-staining, this will last a really long time.

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Joist hangers. I used #10 x 1 1/2 inch Spax HCRx screws for this part. Accurate and awesome.

I pinned the joist hanger on layout with my scratch awl—you have a scratch awl, right?—then sunk some super sweet Spax HCRx screws to hold everything in place.

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Band joists first, then interior framing.

The key to the band joists is getting them level and making sure they integrate into the existing slope of the yard. I also used a bunch of transition blocks around the base of the posts.

Now, we’ve fully transformed from a landscaping project into a carpentry project. Tool up!

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With joists in, it’s time for decking.

I cut the fist pieces of decking to exact length, then I rough-cut the rest prior to installing it. We’ll trim it all to length once it’s in.

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“Collate” the screws.

We used cedar 2×6—whenever I can, I prefer a full 2-by board for my decking and pergola projects—and cedar is kiln dried. As a result, you should gap each board. A nail or screw works perfectly to set the gap. Also, if you’re using screws like we did, take a minute or two to turn the heads all in the same direction, that way they all come out of your hand or pouch pointed the same way.

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Marking the boards for the one-cut.

Just like a typical deck, the first few deck boards are cut to length. The rest are run long. To get them all even, I snap a line across and cut them all at once with a circular saw.

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Some fun carpentry to dress up each post base and weave it into the deck.

To dress this pergola up, I made some fun trim pieces for each post-base and I re-graded the the lawn surrounding it.

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Before. Yelling “Go away weeds!” didn’t work.
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After. I almost left it this way to weather gray, but I wanted everything to match because I am like that.

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Comments (1)

Thank you for sharing this informative article about pergola installation. I hope there are a lot of contractors who could read this and be guided accordingly.

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